MAIN MONASTERIES
of the Drukpa Lineage in Ladakh

The outstanding disciples of Tsangpa Gyare Yeshi Dorje (1161-1211), the first Gyalwang Drukpa, may be divided into two categories: blood relatives and spiritual sons. His nephew, Onre Darma Sengye (1177-1237), ascended the Dharma throne of Tsangpa Gyare and guided Sengye guided the later disciples of Tsangpa Gyare, such as Gotsangpa Gonpo Dorje (1189-1258), onto the path of realization, thus becoming their guru as well.

Tsangpa Gyare had 2,800 'amazing great spiritual sons' including thirteen who had complete control over appearances and the mind, and 100 disciples who engaged in activities benefiting others. Amongst these disciples were the first two 'greats': Pariwa and Kyangmo Khapa; the in-between 'great': Dre-mo-wa; and the last two 'greats': Gyalwa Lorepa (1188-1250) and Gyalwa Gotsangpa. Gotsangpa was the important yogi who formally charted the route for circumambulation of Mount Kailash for the later pilgrims. He meditated in various places, performed many miracles and left his footprint, handprint and also the imprint of his forehead in the rocks of caves where he had meditated. These can still be seen (among other places) at Keylang in Lahaul, Himachal Pradesh, Gotsang Cave in Ladakh and Dri-ra Phug near Mount Kailash in Tibet.

Later in 17th century, the great yogi Taktsang Repa (1573-1651), who was a disciple of both the fifth Gyalwang Drukpa Pagsam Wangpo (1593-1653) and the first Yongdzin Rinpoche (who was the chief disciple of the fourth Gyalwang Drukpa Kunkhyen Pema Karpo), was instrumental in spreading the Drukpa Lineage in Ladakh.

Taktsang Repa

Among the innumerable common disciples of the Fifth Gyalwang Drukpa, Pagsam Wangpo, and the First Yongdzin Rinpoche, Lhatsewa Ngawang Zangpo, were forty-five outstanding disciples who attained enlightenment. One of them was the First Taktsang Rinpoche – Taktsang Repa Ngawang Gyatso, popularly known as Taktsang Shambunath, a reincarnation of the great Indian Siddha Shawaripa and of the great Tibetan yogi Milarepa.

Following the instructions of his gurus, Taktsang Repa went on pilgrimage to all the holy places in China, Tibet and India. While returning from his pilgrimage to Swat valley (now in Pakistan), the mystic land of dakinis, he stayed at Urgyen Dzong, a retreat cave of Naropa in Zanskar, Ladakh. There he received an invitation from Jamyang Namgyal, the King of Ladakh, but he declined this, saying that he neither had permission from his gurus nor guidance from the dakinis to visit the royal court of Ladakh and so he returned to Tibet.

When Sengye Namgyal, the son of Jamyang Namgyal, ascended the royal throne of Ladakh, he sent a petition to Gyalwang Drukpa Pagsam Wangpo, requesting him to send Taktsang Repa to Ladakh to propagate the Drukpa Lineage and give spiritual guidance to the royal court.

Following the instruction of the Gyalwang Drukpa, Taktsang Repa arrived in Ladakh in 1624 at the age of fifty and founded the monastery at Hanley.

Two years later, Taktsang Repa arrived at Hemis and was received by King Sengye Namgyal and members of the royal court. The King had the abode known as Samten Ling, which is still intact, built at Hemis. In this abode, Taktsang Repa preached the Dharma for many years.

The successive reincarnations of Taktsang Repa and his accomplished disciples became guardians of spirituality in Ladakh for the benefits of its people.

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Hemis Monastery

Established in the 17th century, Hemis Monastery, 45km south of Leh, is the most important monastic institution in Ladakh. Located just below the famous cave of Gotsangpa and the Gotsang retreat center, it is cradled in a beautiful valley, surrounded by streams and fronted by long mani stone walls.

The Second Taktsang Repa took the son of King Delden Namgyal, Prince Mipham Tsewang Thrinley Tenzin Migyur Dorje, popularly known as Gyalsey Rinpoche, under his care and gave him the basic spiritual education.

Gyalsey Rinpoche later went to Tibet and received his full ordination vows from Panchen Lobsang Palden Yeshe. He received all the transmissions and empowerments of the Drukpa lineage from the Seventh Gyalwang Drukpa, Thrinley Shingta (1718-1766), from Yongdzin Jampal Pawo and from Thuchen Choegon. On his return to Hemis, Gyalsey Rinpoche constructed main assembly hall and invited the Gyalwang Drukpa and Kathok Rigdzin Tsewang Norbu to consecrate it. He also received many teachings from them. The code of conduct for the monks of Hemis and Chemdrey monasteries, drafted by them and written on yellow brocade, form the basis of monastic discipline to this day.

Gyalsey Rinpoche also built a number of statues at Chemdrey Monastery. He introduced the Hemis festival and the ritual mask dances that are performed at Chemdrey Monastery in the ninth Tibetan month every year. In the later part of his life, he built the three-foot gilded copper statue of the Buddha. On the passing away of Gyalwang Drukpa Thrinley Shingta, Gyalsey Rinpoche built a four-foot silver statue and a silver stupa and printed the scriptural text mDo Pema Karpo in gold as a memorial tribute to him. Later, he invited the Eighth Gyalwang Drukpa, Kunzig Chonang (1768-1822), to consecrate these. The Gyalwang Drukpa used all the offerings he received to construct the fifteen-foot silver stupa, adorned with precious stones, which is today still visible in Hemis.

Gyalsey Rinpoche commissioned Palha, the most renowned artisan of the time, to make the huge embroidered thankas which are displayed to the public during the Hemis festival.

As a tribute to his achievements in preserving and propagating the Dharma and as a reminder to the people of his great deeds, a one-storey high thanka of Gyalsey Rinpoche is put on public display during the second day of the Hemis Festival every year.

Stakna Monastery

Stakna Monastery of Ladakh is situated on the Hemis side of the Indus River, at a distance of approximately 25 km from Leh. The name, 'Stakna' literally means 'tiger's nose'. The monastery was so named because it was built on a hill, which is shaped just like a tiger's nose. Stakna Monastery owes its inception to Choje Jamyang Palkar, the great scholar saint of Bhutan. It formed a part of the many religious estates offered by King Jamyang Namgyal to the saint, around 1580 AD.

The central image inside the monastery is that of the sacred Arya Avalokitesvara from Kamrup (Assam). The successive reincarnations of the Stakna Rinpoche continue to serve as the incumbents of the monastery, preserving the teachings of the Drukpa Lineage. Stakna Monastery also has a number of branch monasteries, namely Mud and Kharu and those of Stakrimo, Bardan and Sani in Zanskar.

Shey Monastery

Shey Monastery is located 15km south of Leh. The monastery was erected on the instructions of King Deldon Namgyal, in the memory of his late father, Sengye Namgyal. The main image inside the Shey Monastery is that of Buddha Shalyamuni. It is a huge image of the seated Buddha and is considered to be the biggest metal statue and the second largest Buddha statue in the Ladakh region. Copper sheets, gilded with gold, make up this amazing Buddha statue.

The image also contains sacrificial offerings such as grain, jewels, holy signs and mantras inside it. On both the sidewalls of the Buddha statue, are displayed the 16 Arhats (Worthy Ones who have achieved Nirvana), eight being on each side. The back wall of the statue is painted with the images of the two chief disciples of Buddha, namely Sariputra and Maudgalyayana. There is hardly any wall around the Buddha statue that is not painted with any image.

A large bowl of wax with a central flame, symbolizing divinity and purity, is placed in front of the Buddha statue. This flame burns continuously for one year, before getting replaced. Some exquisite murals adorn the second story of the Shey Monastery of Leh Ladakh. While, the lower story comprises of a large library and is decorated with murals depicting Buddha, with various types of hand gestures. An annual festival is also held at Shey Gompa, on the 30th day of the first month of the Tibetan calendar.

Chemdrey Monastery

When King Sengye Namgyal passed away in 1645, Chemdrey Palace was presented to Taktsang Repa as a funeral offering. He turned it into a monastery and constructed statues, frescoes and also the courtyard where mask dances are performed. Near Chemdrey Monastery is the famed Khespang retreat center where monks enter into the traditional 3-year retreat. There is also the important retreat cave of Guru Padmasmabhava at the nearby Taktok Monastery.

N.B. There are many branch monasteries of Hemis, Chemdrey and Stakna all over Ladakh, all of them act as spiritual support for the local people.